Spring-summer 2022 parade, friend invited to the party
In the enclosure of the Accor Arena, light letters display the expression "L'Epouppée Belle", the name of the spring-summer 2022 collection of friends.It is in a reconstituted fun fair party that Alexandre Mattiussi, the founder and creative director of the brand, planted the decor of his parade.Covid obliges, the designer opted for an online show with film scene.Strongly inspired by cinema and television, Alexandre Mattiussi this time imbued the aesthetics of the Euphoria series and the consequences of the pandemic on society to imagine a mixed, urban and frankly elegant collection.Oversize pants and jackets cross tie and dye shorts, classic black dresses, rhinestone parts and fishnecks that suggest the chest.
A colorful and disturbing atmosphere
Concentrated, the filming team prepares the field, tests near the mirrors gallery, while the models place on the carousel or next to the big wheel before the dress rehearsal.Alexandre Mattiussi, in black pants and matching cap, is relaxed.The one who has energy and a foolproof positivism has the eye on everything and knows exactly what he wants.
Smoke is broadcast in the entire room, adding a disturbing tone to a a priori joyful and childish universe.We cannot say at what time of the night or day is this funny party or if a danger is watching for his guests.The atmosphere recalls that of Stranger Things or Thriller's clip.The camera revolves around models as if it were a parallel world where generations merge, time expands and improbable encounters are created.
Assumed sensuality
The new AMI collection wants to be the symbol of a youth who has suffered from the crisis, but remains deeply optimistic, determined to embrace its found freedom, in a mixture of cheerfulness and resilience.
The clothes, faithful to the personality of Alexandre Mattiussi, consist of timeless basics and dare this season more transparency, shine and sensuality assumed.As a desire to mark the reappropriation of your body and to announce the hope of a more carefree future.
If the images are loaded with a slightly dramatic aura - consequence of a difficult period -, the signed friendly parade invites to find his child's soul and succeeds in instilling magic through the screen.
Interview
5 questions to Alexandre Mattiussi, founder and creative director of friend
What were your inspirations for this collection? I always wanted my very permissive collections, anchored in everyday life, and think of clothing as something that will make us more beautiful or more confident.I called this collection "L’Escapée Belle" because we have all lost a lot this year and, when we get out, we have no other choice than to enjoy it.Without saying that all this is behind us, "the beautiful escape" is a suspended moment, of transition.
What is your favorite piece? All those in rhinestones.I was a dancer when I was a child, I loved everything that shone.I asked my parents to stop at the Paris Opera just to be able to watch chandeliers sparkle.It evokes me the stars that guide us in the night and the notion of hope.For the first time, I allowed myself to make dresses in rhinestones and muslin, to reveal more skin, to offer a sexy wardrobe.
What story tells this new collection? It is a bunch of friends that go through an abandoned fun fair.We do not know if they come back from an evening or if they go there, but they are sophisticated.I discovered during the confinements the Euphoria series, which upset me with its beauty and the brutality of this youth.I was necessarily imbued with this collection, but the idea is above all to say that we are going through a special period, and the garment takes part in this reflection.I am sure that then we are going to relive the Roaring Twenties with a sexual, artistic and creative liberation.
How did the pandemic upset your creativity? I feel better in my skin, more attentive to my desires and freer too.By being good with myself, my creations are softer, lighter, like this satin short set and bras in lamb.My way of creating it remains the same: I work at night, I see the collections in my dreams.I am like a conductor who makes up a melody and I try that she is as harmonious as possible.
How did the online broadcast of the parade nourish the staging?
It's really cinema, we see the clothes but they are almost secondary.I wanted to tell an inspiring, emotional, creative story.I wanted to federate around the notions of optimism and beauty.The idea is to regain possession of our lives by putting our most beautiful clothes, in the game and freedom.